A Westward Journey: Part 2

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“What good is livin’ a life you’ve been given, if all you do is stand in one place?” -Lord Huron

Okay. Let me start off by telling you about our accommodations in Hatch, Utah.

IMG_7465I found this place by using good ol’ Tripadvisor, and it sounded interesting but it really turned out to be a neat spot in an otherwise uneventful small town.

Allow me to introduce “The Galaxy of Hatch”. A small, 7 room roadside motel with attached diner and a biker theme (Harley themed, of course, but that can be forgiven since it’s so well done).

Zion National Park

Anyway, we decided our first full day in Utah should be a trip to Zion National Park to hike The Narrows. This was a priority, so we made sure this was first on the list just in case we became too wrapped up in other “want to do’s”.

I had seen pictures of Zion before and Earl had already been there twice, so I kinda knew  what I was in store for, but it still amazed me nonetheless.

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After we drove thru the park to the south entrance, we rented water shoes and walking sticks and hopped on a shuttle to the end of the line, after a stop for lunch of course, to Temple Of Sinawava. From there you walk along the river until the sidewalk ends, then you step off into the river and in the river you will stay until you come back out again.

Now I wouldn’t recommend this on a chilly day, maybe if you have a wetsuit. On a hot day in the middle of summer though it was rather refreshing. Oh, and make sure you potty before you go as there’s no bathrooms along this trail nor a private spot for a squat in the bushes.

As soon as you try walking in the river, you’ll be glad you rented those shoes and sticks. The water moves fast and the river bottom is nothing but rocks. Without those funky-looking shoes you could very well twist an ankle or worse. And be prepared, you will fall down. At some point you’ll step in a hole since you can’t see where you’re walking or you’ll plant your foot wrong and the fast moving river will not be forgiving.

Now that I’ve given you the “pre-flight”‘ lets enjoy some pictures, shall we?

 

I’m not sure exactly sure how far we made it up the Narrows, not all the way to Orderville Canyon, but I think we were pretty close. We had been hiking for almost 2 hours and the huge crowd we had been walking with had thinned out to maybe 2 or 3 other groups. It was getting late in the day and we remembered we had to go back the way we came to get out, so it was time to head back.

Of course, on the way back, I was walking along the wall of the canyon using it to help balance through the knee high, fast moving water, then all the sudden, the river bottom disappeared and I was in the water up to my ears! Leave it to me to find the deepest hole in an otherwise shallow part of the river! That was a chilly shuttle ride back!

But that’s ok, because as it turns out Zion Canyon Brewing just happened to be right by the entrance where we parked. There’s something satisfying about a cold glass of suds after a nice hike.

We didn’t get to do the Emerald Pools hike so we’ll have to go back someday and do that, and maybe start earlier in the day to try and go further up the Narrows. It’s a beautiful and fun place, I definitely want to go back with more time to spend there.

Cottonwood Canyon Road

The next morning, we decided to check out the less traveled road and see things your average tourist doesn’t.

It’s a dirt road that starts at the southern end of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument that you’d probably pass right on by while driving Hwy 89 unless you were looking for it. It’s in the middle of nowhere, and from the time we got on Cottonwood Canyon Rd to the time we made it to Cannonville, we saw maybe 6 or 7 other cars.

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This is one of the most scenic drives there is. I’ve never seen such diverse landscape in such a short period of time in my life. And since there’s literally nothing else around, there is that ominous feeling from time to time, that if you were to have an accident out here, it’d be a long time before anyone found you.

The road follows next to a creek bed that goes through, just as the name says, Cottonwood Canyon.

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There’s a few trailheads along the road, and since it was so hot, we pulled in the parking area of one to take a break and drink some water. Figured since we’d taken off our helmets and jackets we’d walk down the trail a little ways. We didn’t get far. The trail went through a small canyon and had a rock slide sometime before so getting through was impossible. But it was a chance to stretch our legs.

 

Back on the bike and down the road a ways, we come to the top of a hill and behold our view…

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Going through this area it started getting sandy in quite a few spots, which makes me nervous riding two-up on an already heavy beast of a motorcycle. It got a little sketchy, but I’m happy to report we remained up-right for the entire ride.

Along this road, there’s a side road that will take you to Grosvenors Arch, but since it was getting past lunch time, we passed on checking it out and kept on trucking.

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While riding along, taking in the fantastic views, we came across a Utah traffic jam, complete with cattle dog.

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I wish I had taken more pictures of the little guy, he was taking his job very seriously.

Shortly after this we made it into Cannonville and found some lunch, we were starving by this time. After we were done eating it was around 3 o’clock and too late to try and do a whole lot, so we decided we’d head over to Bryce Canyon National Park and take a ride through the park to check it out.

Bryce Canyon National Park

Like I said, it was late in the day, so we drove through the park, stopping at overlooks, and enjoying the ride. It was a nice relaxing afternoon. DSCF0776

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Since we got to Bryce so late, we decided we’d come back the next day and check out some hiking.

The next morning, we came back and drove around in circles in the Sunset Point parking lot about 10 times before finding a parking space. We took off our riding gear and laced up our hiking boots and headed down to do the Navajo and Queens Garden Loop Trails.

We started by going down Wall Street ( thankfully, because it probably would have required Earl carrying me and someone carrying him for us to get UP Wall Street, as you can see below)

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I’m sure I could describe all this to you but, it’s so much easier and eye appealing to let the pictures do the talking here. We spent a few hours wandering among the hoodoos, it was like being on another planet, definitely not something a flat-lander from Florida had ever seen before.

(And just a quick side note, whenever I hear the word “hoodoo” I think of David Bowie singing “Dance Magic Dance” from “Labyrinth”. Your guess is as good as mine.)

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“I’m so cute! Gimme your snacks!”

Anyway, back to the hoodoos…

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And I’m not really sure where the day went, but we made our way back up to the rim and over to the lodge for lunch. After, we got back on the bike. There was one more place we wanted to see on our last day in Utah.

Red Canyon: Dixie National Forest

Not to backtrack, but on our way back to Hatch from Bryce Canyon the day before we noticed this cool archway right over the road in a place called Red Canyon. I managed to get a picture of it on our way back to Bryce that morning.

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So we headed over to the Red Canyon Visitor Center and as it turned out there was trails that started right in the visitor center parking lot.

We didn’t have a whole lot of energy from all the hiking in Bryce, so we picked a quick interpretive hike that went up and around the hill behind the visitors center.  It was a nice, relaxing spot away from the crowds at the larger parks.

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And with that, we wrapped up our last day in Utah. The next morning we were leaving the arid climate of southern Utah for the chilly wilderness of Wyoming.

 

For more photos from the Utah portion of our trip, check out my video:

A Westward Journey

 

 

A Westward Journey: Part 1

 

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Sometimes, you find yourself in the middle of nowhere, and sometimes, in the middle of nowhere, you find yourself.  – Unknown

 

On the morning of May 31 2017, Earl and I packed up the GSA and headed out on I-10 west. We had reservations to stay at The View in Monument Valley on the 2nd, so there was no time to stop and smell the roses.

It was foggy out, so I didn’t see the sunrise that morning. Just low hanging clouds almost kissing the river as we headed out-of-town. I-10 from Jacksonville to Tallahassee is nothing to write about; nothing but pine trees as far as the eye can see. The only thing keeping me from nodding off was my music blaring through my speakers inside my helmet. The day stayed overcast so at least we didn’t bake inside of our riding pants and jackets.

As soon as we got to Louisiana, we ran into a few showers and with that brings the inevitable traffic jam. Good thing the GS can go off-road! I don’t think a cruiser could make it across a muddied up median for an illegal u-turn!

From that point, we took backroads through Mississippi with hit and miss showers until we got to I-20. We kept on going, crossing the Mississippi River and back into Louisiana until we got to Marshall, Texas that day. That was a long day.

 

Brief sleep, then up and at em at 5am to get back on the road with a wet start to the day.

No sense in sitting in Dallas traffic, so we diverted north and went through Denton, stopping for lunch in Wichita Falls. To Amarillo from Wichita Falls is a giant wind farm.

After we crossed the border into New Mexico, a stop for gas and a quick check of the weather, we realized we were headed straight into a storm and decided to call it a day.  The storm passed over us in the night and cleared the next morning making for a beautiful sunrise.

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The next morning was chilly. We stopped at a little tourist trap of a spot on Route 66 for breakfast, then off through more scenic landscape, crossing the continental divide.

By the time we made it to Albuquerque, it was starting to pour down rain again, but fortunately it didn’t last long. A few hours later we were in a world right out of a sci-fi western novel, complete with wild horses…

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And otherworldly landscapes.

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And before we knew it, we were right on the border of Arizona and Utah…and Monument Valley.

We only stayed one night in Monument Valley, but after 3 days of trucking it on the bike we felt we deserved a little sleep in time, so after waking to see the sunrise we went back to sleep and didn’t get up till 9am. Then we packed up and headed north.

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Along 191 in Bluff, Utah we stopped for a late breakfast at a little place called Comb Ridge Bistro that deserves mention for their tasty blue corn pancakes.

We continued on 191 to 95 then into Fry Canyon and across the Colorado River.

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We continued north on Utah Rt 95 to Hanksville, then took Rt 24 into Capital Reef National Park.

All the roads leading here are a sight to see, and no amount of photos will give you the true experience of seeing this wonder in person. So if you have the time and means, get out there and see it for yourself.

These are a few random photos from Scenic Drive in Capital Reef. We had intended on going back there while we were in Utah, but there was so much to see, we didn’t make it back that trip. I hope we’ll be able to get back out there someday to explore further.

After this, we made our way to our motel in Hatch, Utah that would be our home-base for the next 4 evenings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Texas Hill Country: Part Three

“I do not intend to tip-toe through life to arrive safely at death”

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Wednesday was our last day in the Hill Country.

We couldn’t ride the whole day since we were meeting a friend that evening, so we had to make the most of it.

We left Junction for the last time with sunny, clear skies. After a quick Micky-D’s breakfast were off on 2169 again.

We decided to do the ride to Enchanted Rock then head to Cooper’s in Llano for lunch before moving on to Horseshoe Bay where we were staying for the night.

From 2169 we took RR 479 east to CR 470 north then north again on CR 412.

Some of these roads we had taken the day before, but going in the other direction. And with the  change in cloud cover it made for a different view of the scenery.

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Then we took CR 410 north and east to CR 420 or  Blue Mountain Road.

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And yes, the cow is on THIS side of the fence. Her and all of her cow friends.

Then it was back on pavement to RR 385 southeast.

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And then it was our first time getting lost for the day.

We were suppose to be looking for Mill Creek Rd north. Well there’s no sign for Mill Creek Road.

We rode all the way until 385 dead ends into Hwy 290 then turned around and headed back.

After blowing up the map on the trusty (Ha!) GPS we found the road we needed to take after Mill Creek Rd and that lead us to find our way in the right direction. It turns out it was actually CR 430 according to the GPS.

From CR 430 or Mill Creek Rd, we took East Mill Rd and that brought us to our first water crossing of the day, Little Devils River.

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This one didn’t even look like a road, more like the river had removed it.

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So East Mill Rd turns into Salt Branch Road, according to the book. It’s actually Salt Branch Loop so says the mighty GPS and I don’t know if it’s the GPS’s fault or Earl reading the wrong page in the book, but we ended up taking the road that leads to the largest, most difficult water crossing for dual sport riders in all of Texas.

Well, maybe not all of Texas, but the Hill Country for sure.

But before I get to that…

We were riding along on East Mill Road.

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We came to a road that we made a left on when we should have just kept going.

So we’re riding along this road, enjoying the countryside.

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And then we come to our second water crossing of the day.

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This one was rock, not dirt and it was slippery. Very slippery, but we made it across.

Just past this water crossing I saw a sign that said Eckert James River Bat Cave Preserve and while I was pondering what a bat cave preserve was, an alarm went off in my brain.

James River.

James River Crossing.

Oh shit.

And around the bend, my suspicion was confirmed.

My first thought was Earl came this way intentionally to scare the crap out of me.

Allow me to mention a billy-goat road in North Carolina where you can hear my not-too-happy voice sprouting profanity on the GoPro video that still makes Earl chuckle to this day.

But that’s not what happened. Innocent mistake, but now what to do?

Crossing was way too risky since we were out there alone, and everything we had with us was loaded onto the bike since we were between motels so the smart thing to do was turn around.

And that’s exactly what we did.

I could have sworn we took a picture of the James River Crossing, but I’ll be damned if I can find it.

So here’s a picture of Earl crossing this one again.

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And if it looks slippery driving across, try walking across it. I came very close to busting my ass making my way to the other side to video Earl crossing.

So we got back to the road we were suppose to be on and made our way to Onion Creek Rd.

From there we went south on Hwy 783 to Threadgill Creek Rd.

Now I would be leaving out a major detail of the Hill Country in April if I didn’t mention the Blue Bonnets.

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And more Blue Bonnets…

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Lots and lots of Blue Bonnets…

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And this photogenic gal…

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Awaiting her close-up amongst the Blue Bonnets…

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From there, it was time to make our way towards Llano and lunch. We hopped on Hwy 2323 north.

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I could see Enchanted Rock in the distance on our way to Llano. We didn’t get to stop to hike it this trip, but that’s just one more excuse to take a bike trip out that way again, not to mention the BBQ.

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Texas Hill Country: Part Two

” Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go.”

-T. S. Eliot 

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I remember Tuesday morning heading out of Junction, it was cold and cloudy with the hope of clearing and warmth. We had breakfast at the cafe near the motel and loaded up for a day of back road adventures.

Before we left home, we had ordered a book online from a man named Richard Gibbens called “Hill Country Adventure”.  This guy spent a lot of hours riding in the Hill Country and making maps and routes for the motorcycle adventure tourist, and if you ever consider wandering off the beaten path out that way, I highly recommend ordering a copy. ( I’ll add a link at the end of this post)*

We had decided the night before that we were going to combine two different routes from the book into one day’s ride. We only had two days to follow some of the routes before heading eastward to see a friend in Horseshoe Bay.

Ride To Stonehenge II

We took Farm Road 2169 out of Junction. Then CR 410 east to CR 412 south/east.

This took us through heavily wooded, grazing land and also gave us our first encounter with gates. These gates are for keeping property owners critters from running off. The roads are public, but the land on either side of the road is owned by ranchers. It’s also interesting because the live stock runs freely, out into the road if they feel like it. So it’s not a good idea to go tearing through these areas at high speed. Those big horn sheep were out in the road and were in the process of running away when I snapped their picture.

On first approaching the gate, I felt like I was doing something wrong, going somewhere I wasn’t supposed to. But after seeing them a few times, it became no big deal.

When we turned off onto CR 412 it followed along a creek for a little ways and made for nice scenery.

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What’s really cool about the Hill Country is erosion from wind and water has made some neat geographic features on the landscape. Not as dramatic as the Grand Canyon, but it’s still neat to look at and try to figure out just how it was formed.

From CR 412 we went east on CR 470, then south on  Blue Mountain Road (CR 420) until we got back to pavement on RR 479. Even the paved roads out here offer up nothing less than an eye-catching view.

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Back on the dirt now, we took CR 443 South to Cr 442 southeast,then CR742 south to HWY 290.

And goats.

Sorry, they were too cute not to share!

Again, we were riding through grazing land so there was a lot of critters to see.

These guys though, I had to stop, get off the bike and say “Hello”and they seemed as equally happy to see us, but I think they may have been hoping for a snack.

We took Hwy 27 southeast into Ingram and from there it gets tricky. Somewhere, we made a wrong turn and completely missed the turn off to see Stonehenge II. It’s a replica of the original Stonehenge in England and we thought it would be a nice spot to sight-see, but we didn’t get to see it that day. I guess we’ll have to ride this route again someday and look for it.

We were far from disappointed with the route though, it was a nice ride.

We found a spot for a pit stop in Ingram and pulled the book out to figure out where to go next.

From Ingram we took Hwy 41 west and heading back towards Leakey and the Three Twisted Sisters.

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Dual Sport Sisters

The “Dual Sport Sisters” are three dual sport roads that connect with the Three Twisted Sisters.

Try saying that 3 times fast.

We headed west on Hwy 41 back to RR 336 and headed south towards Leakey.

 

By this time, the sun was coming out and our bellies were growling.

We had passed by a place called Frio Canyon Motorcycle Stop the day before and remembered they had a cafe. So we stopped in for a break and some tasty burgers for lunch. They had a nice little patio out back to sit and eat, and a shop to buy t-shirts and souvenirs.

After lunch, we headed westward on RR 337.

Then we headed north on RR 335 to Bullhead Road, one of the dual sport roads.

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It’s a nice twisty dirt road through farm land. I didn’t see as many critters on these roads as I had in the morning, but this was a more scenic drive.

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This was a really cool spot. You can’t really tell how tall this rock face is without the bike in front of it.  As cool as it is, I would imagine during periods of heavy rain this road would be impassable right here.

We continued on Bullhead Road until it dumps you back out onto RR 336.

We headed north to Hwy 41, then went west to Hackberry Road and traveled south.

Hackberry Road is another dual sport sister. The third being Kent Creek Ranch Road that we decided to skip due to it being considered a class 3 (the previous roads we took were class 2). We weren’t sure how that would be riding two-up.

I’m sure if Earl didn’t have me on the back that would have been no problem for him, but an already heavy beast of a motorcycle coupled with the weight of two people is a horrible idea on unfamiliar billy-goat trails.

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Hackberry Road was another twisty scenic dirt road, but this one has it’s fair share of water crossings.

See that green growth in the picture above?

That is algae.

And that makes some of these concrete water crossings slicker than whale shit. Not too much concern for people with 4 wheels, but on a bike it can get a little hairy.

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After a few water crossings, farms, and a brief ride along Hackberry Creek, we were back on RR 335 and heading north to Hwy 41 then turned towards the north on Hwy 377.

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Hwy 377 is a nice twisty road as well.

That took us into Junction and back to the motel for hot showers and ice cold cocktails.

And I have to mention we had dinner at Lum’s BBQ in Junction that night. It’s awesome barbecue inside of a gas station and shouldn’t be missed. The best food in Junction hands down.

We still had one more day to ride the Hill Country before heading east.

 

*Hill Country Adventure by Richard Gibbens

 

 

Texas Hill Country: Part One

“Travel is about the gorgeous feeling of teetering in the unknown” 

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Back in April of 2015 we made the two day trek,  most of which was on the most boring piece of interstate in the entire United States, to attend the Moto GP race at Circuit of the Americas in Austin, Texas.

After all the race hoopla, we decided to spend a few days riding in the Hill Country and checking out the scenery and some back country dirt roads, and the Hill Country didn’t disappoint. Lots of solitude, lots of water crossings, and lots of cows. Most of the dirt roads went through cattle grazing land, public use of course, but you always had to be on the look out of cows crossing the road!

And let’s not forget about the great curvy roads like the Three Sisters, and small “ma and pa” barbecue joints that dot the Texas countryside.

I decided to post this in sections and try to break it down by which route we took each day. It’s been almost two years since this trip and my memory is a little fuzzy of some the details, but this trip was worth a few blog posts to be sure.

 

Canyon Lake Dam to Junction

We left Austin on Monday morning and stopped at a Cracker Barrel on l-35 near Buda for breakfast and took back roads to get to Canyon Lake, but since it’s been so long, I’ll be dammed if I can remember which roads we took, though I do remember a small rest area on one road that had chickens running around in the parking lot.

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So with that said, I’ll start off from Canyon Lake Dam. It’s a nice little stop on the way out to the twisties that has a little park on the water and lets you walk across the top of the dam.

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From Canyon Lake, we took TX-46 W to TX-16N into Bandera. By then, we were starving and decided to find somewhere to eat. We drove down Main Street and saw a sign that said “Busbee’s Barbecue. As seen on the History Channel”.

Okay. Why not?

Turns out there was a reason why it was on tv. It was pretty good! But I don’t think there’s been very many slow-smoked pork butts I’ve met and didn’t like. Earl had the ribs and brisket, I had pork and sausage. We sampled the lot and were on our way with full, happy bellies.

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After lunch, we continued on TX-16N on to Medina, then turned westward on to Ranch Road 337. It’s a beautiful stretch of road that winds through mountains. It almost reminded me of roads in western North Carolina. The scenery is different, but no less beautiful.

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Ranch Road 337 takes you through Leakey, which is the pit stop for riding the Three Sisters. The Three Sisters are made up by Ranch Roads 335, 336, and 337. Our plan was to ride 337, over to 335, then North to head towards Junction, where we were staying for the next few nights. Somewhere, somehow, we drove straight past the turn off for RR 335, and stayed on Hwy 55, till we got to Rocksprings. That wasn’t a terrible road either, just not the right one.

Whoops!

So we gassed-up and re-routed. From Rocksprings, we headed North to Hwy 41, and went westward towards RR 336 instead.

It’s a warm, cozy feeling to see a sign like this:

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And note the buzzard flying around in the picture.

Are we really sure we want to go this way?

It really wasn’t that bad. It was a fun, scenic country road. There was even a water crossing, no water on it at the time. Just watch for cows!

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After that fun little detour, we rode North on Hwy 55 again, then onto Hwy 377 into Junction, where we checked in to the motel for the night. It was a fun day on the road, but an even bigger adventure awaited us the following day.